CHAPTER 6: Hong Kong-China
China 1980
We are off to China tomorrow (by plane to Canton and Peking, where it was snowing only last week and was 1-15° yesterday). The weather in HK has been cool and overcast (dull) since we arrived.
I have never been in a more vibrant place. New buildings are going up everywhere - they don't seem the least bit worried about a Communist takeover (the Reds are some of the colony's biggest capitalist speculators). The place is so full of interest I wouldn't mind living here for a few years at the right conditions.
The Bellonis are very nicely set up by their Milanese bank. A beautiful apartment (3 levels) with spectacular views down to the harbour and across to Kowloon, 2 Alfa Romeos, objets d'art from all over S.E.A., an amah (charlady) to do all the housework etc. Antonio left this a.m. for Taipei - he's always zapping about.
Today we went for a ride in a sampan at Aberdeen to view the boat-people from close up. Also photographed some junks under full sail on the harbour - exquisitely exotic and a tremendous contrast with the zillions of skyscrapers behind.
They've caught an average of 190 illegal immigrants/day in the last 2 weeks. Imagine how many they missed.
Manila is a dump but the Filipinos v. friendly. The rice terraces of Banaue were v. pleasant.
In the next 11 days we are supposed to see how one-third of humanity lives.
Hong Kong, 15-4-80
As I mentioned on the phone a few hours ago, we have now received both your HK letters, containing generally good news.
Property values and especially rents are phenomenal here in HK. Several people have told me that the split-level place we're staying in (with 3 bedrooms/2 bathrooms/lounge/dining/kitchen/amah (charwoman) bunkroom probably rents for $US 4,000/month! It is now full of antiques and artefacts from all over SEA.
Last time we were here Antonio (the husband) had to leave for Taiwan. This time we haven't seen him; he's in Peking. Next week they leave for Paris, Italy and New York.
China was interesting but something of a shock. For some reason I expected to find them more advanced materially. Apologists insist on comparing it with what it was. After seeing HK, I couldn't help comparing it with what it might have been. Of course, HK is not everyone's cup of tea.
3-6 April 1980 Beijing
5 April 1980 Badaling
We flew in Chinese Airways Tridents to Canton and Peking, then in an old Viscount to a provincial city called Hefei, then by steam- and diesel train to Nanking and Shanghai; Trident to Canton and train (diesel "express") to Kowloon (HK).
In most places (esp. Hefei, which has only been "opened" to foreigners for a year), we were of at least as much interest to the locals as they were to us. In Hefei we collected big expressionless crowds wherever we walked. Everywhere the people seemed surprisingly placid (and inscrutably Confucian!) No outward signs of unrest.
6-9 April 1980 Hefei
We had our fill of visits to schools, factories, communes, a hospital etc. Also the tourist sights (inc. Mao's cadaver, temples and ancient gardens etc. in various states of rehabilitation - a lot of Buddha statues had their heads knocked off by Red Guards).
9-11 April 1980 Nanjing
Three-quarters of our group were Filipinos, so on Easter Sunday we went to the only Catholic church in Peking (packed out). Interesting people turned up.
In Nanking we stayed in an Australian-jerry-built hotel/motel with plastic(!) koala-patterned curtains and wattle wallpaper.
Everyone in the trade is v. polite. Their lives must be unutterably dreary, but at least they're not likely to die of hunger. Prices are pitched high: having limited accommodation, they might as well attract the richer tourists and gouge them.
We've had a bit of a sickener, too, of Chinese food. F cooked spaghetti and a steak tonight!
Shanghai is a much more open and lively place than the other cities. Wonder what the origin is of the verb "to shanghai"?!
11-13 April 1980 Shanghai
We gave our guides a pretty hard time by asking curly questions, but the answers were often unenlightening.
Estimated population "over 970 million". For having a third child you lose 5-10% of your (already miserable) salary (for life). ZPG (they hope) by 2000 AD.
Only saw 1-2 beggars, v. few cripples etc. Do they ship them all off to non-tourist areas? Lots of older women in Peking with "bound" feet. Only one old man with a beard a bit longer than mine.
